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Not all potatoes are the same. Variety, starch content, water content, and degree of ripeness influence their cooking behavior. Some remain firm even after boiling, while others fall apart easily and become soft and mealy.

Choosing the right type allows you to obtain crispy fried foods, fluffy purees, easy-to-work gnocchi, and salads in which the pieces hold their shape. The color of the flesh can provide some clues, but it's not enough on its own: some yellow potatoes are firmer, while others are more floury. Therefore, whenever possible, it's helpful to check the packaging for the recommended use.

Firm potatoes

Firm potatoes generally contain less starch and more water. They maintain their structure well during cooking, don't fall apart easily, and can be cut without turning into a mealy mass.

They are particularly suitable for:

• potato salads;
• steam cooking;
• boiling;
• soups with whole pieces;
• pan-fried preparations;
• contours in which the shape must remain recognizable.

To make a salad, firm potatoes can be boiled with their skins on and peeled while still warm. This way, they absorb less water and better retain their texture and flavor.

However, they are not the ideal choice for purees and gnocchi, because their moist pulp requires more processing and can make the dough sticky.

Floury potatoes

Floury potatoes are starchier and generally less moist. During cooking, they tend to split open and fall apart, developing a dry, soft texture.

These characteristics make them particularly suitable for:

• puree;
• gnocchi;
• croquettes;
• gateaux and flans;
• velvety;
• baked potatoes;
• some types of frying.

For gnocchi, mature, floury potatoes are best, boiled in their skins or steamed. Dry potatoes require less flour, resulting in softer, lighter gnocchi.

This type of puree also works well because it mashes easily and absorbs milk and butter well. The potatoes should be mashed while still warm with a potato masher, avoiding blenders and food processors: the blades release too much starch and can make the mixture elastic and sticky.

Yellow-fleshed potatoes

Yellow-fleshed potatoes are often considered versatile. They generally have firm flesh, a full flavor, and a color derived from the natural pigments present in the tuber.

They can be used for:

• baking;
• frying;
• pan;
• roasts;
• gratin;
• stews;
• rustic side dishes.

However, not all yellow potatoes behave the same way. Some remain very firm, while others contain enough starch to become soft inside. For crispy frying, it's best to choose a variety specifically designed for frying, rather than relying solely on color.

Firm yellow potatoes are excellent in stews because they absorb the seasoning while retaining their shape. For a very fluffy mash, however, a floury variety may be more suitable.

White-fleshed potatoes

White-fleshed potatoes are often floury and starchy. They tend to fall apart during cooking and are therefore suitable for dishes that require mashing or processing.

They're a good choice for gnocchi, purées, croquettes, doughs, and creams. They can also be used for frying, as long as they're ripe and dry enough.

When boiled for a salad, however, they can break easily, especially if cut before cooking or stirred vigorously. In this case, it's best to choose firm-fleshed potatoes.

New potatoes

New potatoes are harvested before they are fully ripe. They are generally smaller in size, have thin skin, and have moister, firmer flesh.

They are particularly suitable to be:

• roasted whole;
• baked in the oven with the peel;
• pan-fried;
• steamed;
• used in salads.

Before cooking, simply wash and scrub them thoroughly. The peel can be left intact and thin.

Because of their high moisture content, new potatoes aren't usually the best choice for gnocchi and mashed potatoes. They can also be less crispy when fried like a stick than a mature, floury potato.

Which potatoes should you choose for frying?

For French fries, mature, dry potatoes with a medium to high starch content are ideal. Too watery flesh hinders crust formation and can make the fries soft or greasy.

After cutting, the sticks can be soaked in cold water to remove some of the surface starch. They should then be thoroughly dried before placing them in the oil.

Double cooking helps achieve a soft interior and a crispy surface: a first frying at a moderate temperature cooks the pulp, while a second, hotter one completes the browning.

Which potatoes should you choose for the oven?

Floury or medium-floury varieties are suitable for roasting potatoes, as they produce a golden brown surface and a soft interior. Many yellow-fleshed potatoes also produce excellent results.

To enhance their crispiness, they can be blanched briefly, drained, and gently moved around the pan, creating a slightly uneven surface. These small bumps become particularly golden in the oven.

Very compact varieties, on the other hand, remain smoother and firmer. They can still be used when you want well-defined, less crumbly pieces.

How to recognize a good potato

Regardless of variety, potatoes should be firm, dry, and free of soft spots. The skin should be intact, free of mold, rot, or deep lesions.

Overdeveloped sprouts and large green areas indicate improper storage. The green parts should not be eaten; when they are extensive or accompanied by numerous sprouts, it is best to discard the entire potato.

Tubers should be stored in a dark, cool, dry, and ventilated place. Light promotes greening, while closed plastic bags can retain moisture.

In conclusion

Firm potatoes are ideal for salads, boiling, and preparations where the pieces must remain intact. Floury potatoes, on the other hand, are better suited for gnocchi, purées, croquettes, and recipes that require a dry, easily workable pulp.

Yellow potatoes are often versatile, while new potatoes are best cooked whole, baked, or steamed. However, color alone isn't enough to determine their use: starch content, ripeness, and manufacturer's instructions are more reliable factors for choosing the right potato and enhancing every recipe.